Old Downton Lodge, Downton on the Rock
June 2005

It’s been some years since I began reviewing food establishments and I have covered a fairly wide spectrum from basic pubs to Michelin starred restaurants.

I have also judged fairly high profile competitions in food-related industries including eateries.

Over that time I have had some pretty amazing meals from good, honest pub grub to the more artistic gourmet experiences.

And as far as I can remember I have only ever given one five-star rating. That has now changed with my recent visit to Old Downton Lodge near Ludlow.

I couldn’t find fault — and believe me I tried, I really tried. And that’s because as reviewers we want to be as honest as we possibly can be for the sake of our readers. Having said that, a place is only as good as the last time you had a pleasurable experience there because anything can happen in between visits.

But back to Old Downton Lodge. It is in an idyllic setting, although be warned it is a little off the beaten track, and wraps itself around you as you enter the main courtyard through an archway. It is surrounded by the Downton Estate, from where game and other meats are sourced, and which is one of the top ten best shoots in the world.

It is run by Jayne and Martyn Emsen, formerly of the award-winning restaurant The Jolly Frog just a few miles away. After six successful years at the Frog the couple took on Old Downton Lodge, at Downton on the Rock developing it into a first class destination for accommodation and dining.

They opened in April for lunches and just a few weeks ago for dinner.

Friends from Ludlow have been waxing lyrical about the Prix Fixe lunch menu which looks astounding value at £12 for two courses and £15 for three but I went along for dinner with two friends.

While we perused the menu we enjoyed marinated olives and garden crudites (£2.95) and three oysters au naturel and three grilled with cheese (£6).

There is a regular menu which changes to suit what is in season and also a Fresh Fish of the Day menu.

James and Jo went for starters off the very tempting fish menu. He had dressed Cornish crab with gazpacho dressing (£7.95) which seemed an unusual combination but proved a big success.

Jo had moules marinieres a la creme (£6.95). A huge portion arrived with a subtle cream sauce — ‘it was not rich and overpowering’ was Jo’s verdict.

I had a twice-baked cheese and chive souffle (£6.95) which was quite simply the best I have ever eaten. As light as air and so flavoursome.

Home-baked bread was used to sample the various sauces!

Next James and I went for the fish choices. He had a grilled lemon sole meuniere (£14.95). A simple dish you might say; well, yes if it is cooked properly. Sadly the fish is too often overcooked and smothered with too much butter and lemon. This was not. It came with mashed potatoes, excellent new potatoes and crisp sea asparagus.

I had half a fresh Cornish lobster grilled with garlic (£14.95) which also came with those new potatoes and sea asparagus. This was fish as fresh as you can get it so far from the coast.

Jo had a vegetarian option — baked gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnut pesto (£10.95). Made on the premises these gnocchi melted away while the sauce was light and fresh.

By this time we were full to overflowing but had to go the extra mile and try treats from the tempting puddings menu — though only after a short break to recover a little.

James had a Granny Smith sorbet, cider-poached apples with pain perdu (£5.95). He had to forgo the pain perdu because of a wheat intolerance but the apples and sorbet were delightfully refreshing.

Jo had silky smooth homemade ice-cream (£4.95) while I had a rhubarb and ginger creme brulee with Cranachan ice-cream (£5.95). I can’t resist rhubarb when it is in season and this was the richest, smoothest creme brulee!

There is a good wine list and full range of bar drinks. There is also real ale including bottled beer from the Corvedale Brewery at nearby Corfton.

We retired outside for coffee and tea and sat there feeling pleasantly replete and very contented.

In fact we didn’t really want to leave.

Old Downton Lodge has been transformed into a top-class rural retreat, open to the public for all types of events, such as parties and weddings, with a civil licence to marry in all parts of the stunning medieval building.

Also under development is a chef’s school and outside catering production kitchen.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters
Grilled goat’s cheese, asparagus tips and baby spinach salad (£5.95); risotto of home smoked chicken, leeks and Peccorino cheese (£5.95).

Main courses
Confit of lamb, rosemary roast carrots and mash (£12.95); pan-fried venison steak, bacon, chestnuts, red wine and a hint of chocolate (£13.95).

Desserts
White chocolate and cardamon pannacotta, dark chocolate sauce (£5.95); warm prune and Armagnac tart, clotted cream (£4.95).

ATMOSPHERE
Relaxed comfortable country house style and very welcoming

SERVICE
Efficient and just friendly enough without being over the top. In fact, faultless.

DISABLED FACILITIES
No disabled facilities.

SMOKING POLICY
Non-smoking restaurant, smoking allowed in the sitting room.

  ***** 5 out of 5